Ask the Chef

September 20, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). On a vacation in Monterey, we had the immense pleasure of dining at the Whaling Station - we hope Alfredo is still there and send our best, as he was a wonderful server our first trip and host on the next day’s visit. Our then 10 year old son enjoyed feasting on “whatever he wanted”, and consequently our bill was about, well, worth it totally! He had chosen the veal and porcini ravioli (I’m Italiano) in the brown butter–rosemary sauce. I would love this recipe if it could be available. When we book our next vacation to California, you will definitely get our reservations in advance. Please open a restaurant in Chicago! And send Alfredo, if he’ll come. P.S. Next time, I’m having the live lobster because I deserve it!
Sheryl Ford and Family
Via e-mail
A). Indeed you do. Life is too short not to over-indulge oneself once in a while. Get a little crazy – it’s fun. As for my ravioli recipe, if you are a regular reader, you probably know the story about my grandmother’s requests for some of my favorite recipes while on her death-bed. The point of the story, Sheryl, is you’re not getting that ravioli recipe. But, because of your kind words, try making a brown butter sauce. It is delicious, pretty easy to make and works great on meat, fish, poultry and pasta. French in origin, where it’s called “beurre noisette" the name refers to the hazelnut color butter turns when browned on the stovetop. By the way, according to the California Milk Advisory Board, California is the largest butter producing state in the U.S., with almost 400 millions pounds last year. That’s a lot of churning.
Brown Butter Sauce Recipe

½ Cup butter (salted works best)
1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic
2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme or sage
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Cut the butter into pieces and melt in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. When the butter begins to foam, cook and stir for 2 to 3 minutes until the butter turns golden brown and smells nutty. Swirl the pan to avoid scorching and remove from the heat to stir in the herbs, garlic and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. As an option, adding chopped walnuts increases the nuttiness of your sauce.

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Q). Someone sent us some smoked Finnan Haddie. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Via e-mail

A). Finnan Haddie is haddock (“haddies”) from the Aberdeen fishing village of Findon (pronounced locally as "Finnan") in Scotland, where references to smoked fish go back to the 1500’s. Haddock is a very lean and delicious fish, but because it doesn’t salt well, other than fresh it is either dried or smoked. Originally smoked over peat, it is commonly poached in milk and served for breakfast. I used to make a chowder with smoked haddock at The Whaling Station with potatoes, onions and bacon - it was fantastic.

Smoked Haddock Chowder Recipe
Sauté chopped parsley, onions, potatoes and bacon in a heavy pan. When it starts to brown, add cream or half and half (or both). Bring to a low boil and cook until the potatoes are soft. Now, flake in the pieces of fish and stir gently. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve in a large bowl, topped off with a pad of butter.

Promoting Monterey in San Francisco. Folks, I recently was asked to tape a CBS show called “Eye on the Bay” that runs weekly in the bay area. The episode was about visiting Monterey and I gave them a tour of OUR Fisherman’s Wharf. It was a lot of fun and is scheduled to air this Friday, September 22, at 7 pm.

Reader response. I’m referring to a recent inquiry by one of your readers about where to find bottarga. I have two sources for it: 1) Deananddeluca.com
(800-221-7714) - French “boutargue”, red mullet only; and

2) Beatrice.u@gustiamo.com
(718-860-2949) – Italian bottarga, muggine and tuna. I’m sure you are familiar with Dean and Deluca, and Beatrice is worth checking out. Giulio Via e-mail Thanks for the comeback, Giulio (now that’s Italian). And don’t forget Nick (831-760-6246). This time of year it’s a little grated bottarga over some sliced heirloom tomatoes with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and some salt and pepper. Don’t forget the dried oregano!

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OK John, I'm a long time Redhead and I think I have the drink for you. By the way some people think I make the best Waborita this side of Cabo...LOL
CaboPete, Pete Cambianica Merced, CA, Via e-mail

Prickly Pear Waborita Recipe
1 1/4 oz. of Cabo Wabo Resposado
1/2 oz. Cointreau
1/2 oz. Margarita Mix
1/2 oz. Prickly Pear Juice
Shake it up with Crushed ice and pour into a chilled Martini Glass and Garnish with a lime wedge.

Q). Dear Chef, explain canned anchovies – I don’t understand why people eat them, they are so salty and fishy strong.
Jo Anne Jorgenson
Via e-mail

A). The canned ones are first gutted and heads cut off, brined and then layered in salt. The salted fish is then topped off with fresh brine and is left to cure for 3 to 4 months. While it’s curing, the smell is unbelievably delicious, tangy, sweet, nutty, salty, sharp and a little fishy - in a good way. After curing, when you have a need for some anchovy filets (we use them as appetizers), they are removed from the salt, split and de-boned then briefly soaked in vinegar for 10-15 minutes to remove excess salt. Then they are dressed in olive oil, lemon, black pepper and crushed red pepper. The champ of anchovy eaters is a former Argentinean soccer star (now coach Carlos Volpini). He’s good for 3 to 4 tins. Man, oh man, can that boy eat anchovies. The one in the tins are the product of 1st the salting and
curing process, de-boned, filleted and packed in olive oil. European and South Americans all love salted anchovies. Give them a real try, I have convinced a lot of people.

Anchovy Uses - just to name a few:
1) on top of fresh sliced tomatoes
2) on a steak
3) mixed with butter and parsley and melt on a steak or fish
4) sprinkle of coarse salt
5) sandwiches with vegetables or meat
6) a vegetable dip, mix with garlic olive oil and a lot of raw vegetables (ask Terice and Dave Clark about this one)
7) in salad dressings
For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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