Ask the Chef

May 31, 2006  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). A local breakfast restaurant is serving grits as an option to hash browns. I asked a server what grits is made from and was only told that it is corn. Can you fill me in?
Samuel D.,
Monterey, Via e-mail

A). Grits is made from ground corn, known as hominy, which is produced by soaking mature corn kernels in lye, lime or diluted hardwood ash. The soaking caused the corn to expand until the outer shell splits, releasing a large, fluffy, chewy kernel. After the hominy has been ground (traditionally by a stone mill), it is passed through screens with the

finer part becoming corn meal and the coarser material becoming grits. To prepare, it is simply boiled into a porridge, until enough water evaporates to leave them semi-solid. Most everywhere in the southern U.S., grits is referred to as “hominy grits”. In New Orleans, the whole kernels are called “big hominy” and the ground product referred to as “little hominy”. Many Southeastern-ers will tell you that the only hominy worth eating is small hominy, or grits, which they eat with everything – butter, gravy, country ham, river shrimp, eggs, cheese, cream, fried fish, veal steak, and, as you found out, breakfast.
Q). We love potato salad. Can we make a good one without all the mayonnaise?
Sue Jacobs, Via e-mail

A). Just in time for summer, how about a different kind of potato salad – Sicilian style? Start with some Yukon Gold potatoes that have been well scrubbed – you don’t have to peel them. Boil in salted water over medium heat (don’t use a rolling boil or better yet, steam them). When they are done (fork-tender), cut into 3/4-inch cubes or rounds. Put into a large bowl some with sliced red onions, your best extra-virgin olive oil, rough chopped Italian parsley, salt and pepper. Not bad, folks.

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The salad days. Recently I tried a great salad from Earthbound Farms containing several fresh herbs. It was terrific – but why not make your own? Just throw together small pieces of flat leaf parsley, dill, oregano, basil, thyme, tarragon, celery tips – all must be fresh. Now add a few pieces of butter lettuce, little gem or leaf lettuce and, bingo, you’ve got it.

Q). I was in one of your restaurants recently and had a drink that I think was called a blue martini. It had vanilla vodka and blue curacao. I can’t remember the rest of the ingredients and I

loved it! Was hoping you could give me the complete recipe to enjoy at home.
Allen J., Via e-mail

A). What you are referring to is the very popular Blue Moon martini. As the menu states: Caution: habit forming. Combine two parts vanilla vodka, one part peach schnapps and a splash of pineapple juice in a martini shaker full of ice. Shake well and serve it up with a wedge of pineapple and a drop of Blue Curaçao. To get the full effect, the Blue Curaçao must be slipped gently down the side of the martini glass so it settles in the bottom – cheers!

Q). What is Panko? I see it on menus like Sea Bass in Panko crumbs.
Susan, Via e-mail

A). Panko (pronounced PAN-koh) is a type of dry breadcrumbs widely used in Japanese cooking that is coarser and flakier in texture than packaged bread-crumbs. Because of its unique texture, it makes a super-crunchy coating for fried meats and fish. Panko is especially suited for seafood because the fish’s texture can be overwhelmed by heavier breading. It’s also good sprinkled on top of casseroles and gratins. These days, you can find Panko in most markets.

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Q). I see lemon grass in the markets. What is it and how can I cook with it?
Austin M.
Salinas, CA

A). I remember this wonderful product from my earliest visits to Asia. Lemon grass has now become more or less mainstream, at least in restaurant kitchens. It is essential in Asian cooking and, as the name implies, has a very nice lemony flavor. Lemon grass is widely used as a herb in Asian (particularly Thai, Lao, Khmer and Vietnamese) and Caribbean cooking in teas, soups, and curries. The stalk itself is too hard

to be eaten, except for the soft inner part. Remove the outer layers to reveal the more tender core, mince or cut into 2” pieces and try using it in pork, chicken or fish marinades.

How sweet it isn’t. This past weekend I was on a mission to find apricots and cherries. I should have known better because it's too early. But being optimistic, I headed over Hecker Pass to Gilroy, then Morgan Hill, Hollister and then back home. This is known as Pisto fruit run. There should be a truth in advertising laws for fruit stands. The signs said “sweet tree ripened apricots”. I stopped 2 times and both had misled me. I told them,

 “These are terrible, no flavor and not sweet”. Answer: “You looking for trouble mister?” No, just truth in advertising. Then it was “No speak the English” and no sale. At another spot, after tasting an apricot and reacting to the sour taste, the sales lady said, “A little tart, huh? I said, “Hey, tart is one thing, puckering your whole body is something else. Your sign says sweet cots? What gives?” The young lady responded: “I hate apricots”. Hold on folks, we are 10 days to 2 weeks out so hang on and make sure to taste the fruit before you buy.
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