Ask the Chef

September 14, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Recently I saw something about meat loaf and I started thinking about my Mom's version. Hers' was meat loaf Italian style. It was a 3-pound meatball shaped as the traditional meat loaf. Then I thought about her turkey stuffing and that was the ravioli filling just stuffed in a turkey - not bad! In chef school we were taught to make meat loaf with cooked carrots or hard-boiled eggs down the middle. So when you cut it, you had a slice of carrot or egg smack dab in the middle. The best of all is definitely my Mom's giant meatball recipe with beef, ground pork, Pecorino cheese, garlic, parsley, soaked bread and egg binder. These days, I add a sweet and sour tomato sauce (vinegar & sugar) and raisins. Spoon on some mashed potatoes (the sauce with the potatoes are great) and you got it!

I love to hear my wife whistling in the morning, it can mean two things: 1) She's happy and content or; 2) She ate bird seed for breakfast.

Q). I'm a newspaper reporter in Northern California. I also like to cook. When I use spices, I like to grind them myself, but don't like using a coffee grinder to do it. If I buy a first-class cast iron mortar and pestle, will that be sufficient to pummel spices into a fine enough powder to answer for most purposes? Will the iron, porous as it is, acquire too many flavors? (That's two questions, I realize.) Cinnamon is particularly tough to make a powder. Cloves also are no picnic. Thank you.
Dave Boyce, Via email

A). My first question is why don't you like to use a labor saving piece

of equipment? These things were invented to make working in the kitchen easier. Try using a hand-cranked coffee grinder if you want a more physical touch. I would not use an iron mortar and pestle, yes porous, yes too many flavors. Cinnamon and cloves are always used in such small amounts (because they are so powerful) is it really necessary that you make your own powder? I once started to do a show on cooking in a fireplace. I had bought all kinds of antique pots, pans, trivets - any old cast iron cooking equipment. I started a fire and started to make a stew and grilled meat and then I started to sweat. Man, was that hard work. I told my crew, "Stop!" Then we taped another version showing the audience all the old equipment, but I cooked on a modern gas range. Get it - cooking on fire was hard work!

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Q). I watched your show for the first time on 8-23-05 and was impressed. I am trying to find the recipe you made that day. It had clams, chorizo, peppers, garlic and topped with cheese. Topic on TV said "Cabo San Lucas".
Beverly Kirk
Via email

A). That was one of my new shows - it was all about clams. What you do is saute 1 large bell pepper, 1 medium onion, 6 garlic cloves, some cilantro and 3 small Serrano peppers. Using 2 links of Mexican chorizo, sauté all for 10 minutes on medium. Add the 3 lbs. of medium live clams, 1 cup of chopped tomatoes, juice from 3 limes and cover. After 4 minutes, start shaking the covered pan when all the clams are open. Serve in bowls with margaritas and sangria - ole'!
While shopping recently, a guy (K.C.) told me about a recent food discovery - fresh figs split, stuffed with blue cheese, rolled in a piece of prosciutto and lightly grilled over an open fire - sounds pretty good!

Q).
Hi! I live in Germany and, until recent menu changes went into effect, was able to have Chinese chicken in lettuce roll-ups at the local "Chili's" restaurant. I have looked all over for a recipe to try to make at home, and find all kinds, but nothing even close. It has a type of fried noodle in it, and shredded carrots and two really yummy dipping sauces. I'm going through withdrawals, and wondered if you have had a recipe for anything like it.
Jodie Barnett
Via email
A). Sorry Jodie, but I'm not familiar with the way Chili's makes their dishes - however, you might want to try this version, which is quite good.

Chinese Chicken Lettuce Roll-ups Recipe
Dice up 3 skinless chicken thighs (2lbs.) add 1/2 cup finely minced carrots, 1 cup minced green onion and 2 minced garlic cloves. Sauté in a non-stick pan with vegetable oil and season with a dash of soy sauce, some sesame oil, 2 tblsp. of roasted sesame seeds, a little crushed pepper and finally 3 to 4 tblsp of hoisin sauce. Add some more uncooked minced greens and 1/2 cup crushed peanuts. Get a large head of iceberg lettuce and carefully peel into large pieces. Scoop some of the filling into the lettuce cups and bingo! I hope you like it!

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Q). Poblano Chile Recipe. One of your recent TV shows (last Thursday) showed a recipe for crab stuffed poblano chiles with a pumpkin seed sauce. I don't recall the name of the recipe. Can you tell me?
Louie
Via mail

A). Hey Louie, that recipe was kind of made up. Char some large poblano or pasilla chilies and leave intact. Split down the side and remove the seeds and membranes. Using fresh picked Dungeness crab, add a bit of cilantro, salt & pepper, fresh lime juice, diced hard tomatoes, and diced sweet red onion. Mix all together and stuff into the peppers. For the sauce, toast some
pumpkin seeds and put into blender with a little chicken stock (it should be thick like mush). Remove and blend in some sour cream, salt & pepper and a bit more stock just so that it is pourable. Heat the stuffed peppers till just warm, pour over some sauce and garnish with pomegranate or whole roasted pumpkin seeds. Other filling options could be cooked chicken, cooked beef, shrimp or just use your imagination.

Q). Dear Chef, Where do the tiny little flies that appear over my fruit bowl come from?

A). Flies in the fruit bowl, huh! Good question...I do believe they are referred to as fruit flies, according to Andy at Andy's Orchard in

Morgan Hill. The flies are around vegetables or fruits that are very ripe or spoiled (fermenting), rotting bananas, potatoes and onions can also be affected. Seems to me that you have over ripe vegetables and fruit sitting out. Eat it faster, throw it out or refrigerate. This will eliminate your problem. If you have ever made cider wine or vinegar, this is the same fly.

Folks, I'd like to hear from you about your favorite seafood restaurant and their best dish. The place you love could be anywhere, local or abroad. Write to me and I'll send you an autographed Chef's photo. On second thought, maybe you'd prefer a cookbook. Remember to include your return address.

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