Ask the Chef

December 14, 2005  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Q). I need recipe for your "turducken" - the turkey, chicken and duck with stuffing all wrapped together. Please include recipes for the stuffing, gravy, mashed potatoes, etc. All done on your show...WOW looks so good; I want to do it for Christmas. Love ya, Lisa, Via e-mail

A). If you are really ready to tackle this one, you might be promoted to chef. This project is guaranteed to impress, especially during the holidays. There's a lot involved, so I'll give it to you in two parts. The turducken will need to cook for 12 or 13 hours at 190 degrees F so begin preparation well in advance.

Turducken Recipe Part 1 - preparing the birds.

Needs:
· 20-25 lb whole turkey
· 4-5 lb whole duckling

· 3-4 lb whole chicken (or use a larger chicken and place the duckling inside it)

Place the cleaned turkey (breast side down) on a flat surface. Cut through the skin along the length of the spine. Using the tip of a knife and starting from neck end, gently separate meat from the rib cage on one side. Toward the neck end, cut through meat to expose shoulder blade; cut meat away from and around the bone, severing bone at the joint to remove shoulder blade. Disjoint the wing between second and third joints. Leave the wing bones and keep the wing attached to the meat. Continue separating meat from frame, heading toward the thighbone and being careful to keep the "oyster" (pocket of meat on back) attached to skin, rather than leaving with bone. Cut through ball-and-socket joint to release the thighbone from the carcass (bird will be open on one side, exposing

bones left to deal with). Keep the leg attached to the meat. Repeat boning procedure on the other side of the bird. Carefully remove carcass and reserve for making stock. You should end up with a flat, boneless (except for wings and legs) turkey with the skin intact, in one large piece. Cover the boned turkey and set aside (or chill). Repeat the process on the duckling and chicken, but cut off the first two joints of wings, and debone both stumps of wings and leg drumsticks (cut through flesh at thin-nest point and trim around these bones with a knife until they can be removed). Trim excess skin and fat from necks of birds. If it is your first time deboning a fowl, it is advisable to practice first on the chicken rather than the turkey. Both the chicken and duck will be stuffed inside the turkey and need not be kept perfectly intact. Make stock from the chicken carcass. Next time: stuffing and roasting.

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Q). it's high time that we replace some knives in this house!! Where can you suggest I get the best buy on either a set of knives or one really good one? Your help on this would be greatly appreciated, with Christmas right around the corner!
Katherine Lincoln
Via e-mail

A). Katie, I buy all my knives at Monterey Bay Restaurant Equipment in Sand City 899-1422 - ask for Danny, Rosie or Bill. Tell them I said you get a discount. For years I have been using a

rather inexpensive professional knife set. I use and abuse them, then throw them out and buy new. Recently, however, I have been using a Japanese style knife called Kershaw. Superb with great weight, hand-feel and sharp as a razor. Nobody is allowed to touch my knives. Damage by people who don't know how to handle them are the worst offenders. How about someone using a $200 knife to open a lid using the tip? Seeing that will send me into orbit! Forschner knives with wood handles are great for the average cook and are priced right
but for the serious cook, go for the Kershaws. I have 3 paring knives, 1 medium sized one, 1 large one, plus a clever, a bread knife, a boning knife and a Mack the knife.

Q). I'd like to know if you have recipes for making cucidati cookies and cannoli cookies? I'll appreciate very much if you help me on this matter.
Jim
Via e-mail

A). Ok Jim, the recipes are on my website
.

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Q). I need a cookbook on Italian cookies and pastries only. Any ideas on what and where to buy a book? THANKS
Joe Sandigo, Via e-mail

A). Boy, oh boy, there are a lot out there. Try Great Italian Desserts by Nick Maligieri. Since personally I don't like baking, I stick to classics like cannoli, tiramisu, fig cookies, cassata stuffed peaches, creama puffas, granites, ice cream, etc. Good Luck!

Q). In the past, you have men-tioned a holiday ham which you stated was superb...but I didn't write down at the time the market name. Can you please advise?
Chad, Via e-mail

A). I can tell you where to buy them, but the same ham can have different names. Monte Vista Market in Monterey has them. So many people were asking for it that they were calling it the Pisto ham. Just make sure you order one with the bone and at least 22-24 pounds.

If you're looking for last minute gifts we just got our new aprons in. They are black and have Monterey's Cookin Pisto Style stitched in gold for only $24.95. You can only get them at my office (786 Wave St. Monterey 373-3778). While you are there, why not pick up some of my seasonings, one of my cookbooks or one of my grills.

Tip calienté! For your authentic, south of the border kitchen needs, check out La Morenita Tortilleria and Meat Market at 1876 Broadway in Seaside (394-3770). Not only one of our great mom and pop markets, it's the place to go for freshly made tortillas, Mexican cuts of meat, seafood and some genuine warmth.

Next week's column: Turducken part two and a Christmas feast or, as I call it, a Sicilian triumph!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants
in Monterey, California, click here.

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