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March 4, 2004          ...           Ask the Chef            ...          John Pisto

Readers: Well, it looks like I finally get my chance to serve pasta and sardines to a large group. A group of marine biologists and Steinbeck enthusiasts are planning to retrace John Steinbeck and Ed “Doc” Ricketts’ voyage to the Sea of Cortez in 1940. They will be sailing on board the Gus D, a 73-foot fishing boat that is very similar to the Western Flyer, the sardine boat that carried Steinbeck and Ricketts. The Gus D will be berthed at Fisherman’s Wharf, tied up next to Abalonetti, until March 11 the date the original voyage set sail. Next Wednesday March 10, we plan to serve an authentic Monterey-Italian meal to guests and dignitaries - weather permitting. The invitation-only feast will feature iceberg salad, pasta with Monterey sardines, garlic bread and red wine by the gallon. There will be long tables with checkered tablecloths and accordion music.

The Gus D

This trip was originally planned taking the actual Western Flyer, which I’m told is still around somewhere in Washington State. Boy, wouldn’t she look incredible tied up next to our Wharf? Now that’s a project. For more information check out: www.seaofcortez.org

Western Flyer

 

Folks, I’m proud to be sending off the crew with their bellies full of sardines, pasta and lots of cheap dago-red. Ed and John would surely be pleased.

 

Dear Chef,

This week I tried your pheasant cacciatore recipe from Nov. 5, 2003 and found it to be outstanding! It was one of the best pheasant recipes that I have ever tried, tasted even better the next day. Thanks so much for sharing it.

Bob Taylor

Oak Hills.

You're welcome Bobby-boy! By the way, my web site now has over 500 recipes and subjects arranged alphabetically and by date, with more added each week. Keep those letters coming!

Q).  I just had the Abalone at the Blue Moon! Never have I found a better preparation - anywhere!! So tender. Can you tell me how to make them so tender without pounding them paper-thin?

Via e-mail, Michelle, San Pedro

A).  OK, here’s the secret: Clean the abalone, leave whole and place into a strong cloth bag, canvas is perfect. Then carefully put the bag with the abalone behind your rear tire of your car. Carefully roll over the abalone one time. One time Michelle or you will have a large white spot - just kidding! The reason these little babies are so tender is that they are raised in 50 gallon barrels and are hand-fed. They do not need to travel for food so the whole muscle doesn’t get any exercise. This makes the whole foot or edible part very tender, including the apron.

Q).  John, I really enjoy your column in the Monterey Herald. I lived in New Jersey for 58 years and our traditional Christmas breakfast was salt mackerel and water potatoes. I was able to buy salt mackerel in packages but since I have moved to California, I find it is not available. Do you have a recipe for making salt mackerel? I sure would like to make some.

Bob Durham, Via e-mail

A).  Salt Mackerel Recipe: Filet fresh mackerel and don’t take all the bones out. Brine for 1 day. Brine: Use sea salt with water that will float a potato. Then using Kosher medium-grain salt and a plastic or wooden container, start with a layer of salt (cover the bottom) then the fish, then the salt. Fill with the salt brine, then place a clean piece of wood over the last layer and place enough weight to make the water over-flow. Use a clean rock but not too much weight or you will squash the fish. Too little weight and the water in the fish will not be removed. Place in a warm area protected with cheesecloth and let cure for 3 to 4 months. While it is curing, it will smell absolutely delicious. Keep topping off the brine and don’t let it dry out or it will be ruined. To use remove from salt and rinse under running water then place in a bowl filled with fresh water. Change the water a couple of times until it tastes right for you. This should take a couple of hours. To find mackerel check out Asian markets in our area.

 

Q). Dear John,

I just made reservations for my husband and I for April. Do you ever make stuffed calamari and serve that on your menu? My grandmother made it with breadcrumbs and put a red sauce over linguine on Christmas Eve. I have yet to find a restaurant where I live that serves it or a recipe for it.

Thanks.    Lucy Olivia Attner - A fellow Italian that loves to eat and cook.  McLean, VA

A).  Are you in luck! My restaurant on the Wharf not only serves stuffed calamari, but also serves 12 other calamari dishes - but that’s another story. Your East-coast squid is very good so try this Stuffed Calamari Recipe: Buy your squid cleaned and left in the tube form. Cut the eyes and beak out of the head and chop the tentacles into 1/4 inch pieces. Combine 4 cups of breadcrumbs, 1 cup of grated Romano cheese, 1 bunch of chopped parsley and 1/2 cup of finely chopped garlic. Next, add the

tentacles and a splash of milk (just to bind) to one beaten egg. Mix with breadcrumbs and stuff the tubes, closing the ed with a toothpick. Be sure to cut off the tip of the squid so it doesn’t blow up or take flight. Brown slightly in olive oil then place in a simple marinara sauce. Cover the pan and cook for about 45 minutes on medium-low and you’ve got it.

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