June 30, 2004 Ask the Chef Article

June 30, 2004 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q). Hi John,
Always look forward to your column every week. Where can I find "Spanish smoked paprika" and chipotle powder or chipotle chili powder? I have looked high and low with out any luck, would appreciate any help.
Thanks, Steffie Carmel
Via e-mail

A). Hi Steffie, For Spanish smoked paprika, call Phil 901-9149. It comes regular or hot. Chipotle anything? I bought some dried ones a while back in Seaside, CA. Any of these great

Mexican markets should have them. Are you aware that they are also available in the can in adobo sauce?

Here's the best tip all year! "The Farm" in Salinas is open again. They are supplying their own heirloom tomatoes for all of my restaurants and these highly seasonal beauties are just beginning to ripen. Folks, their stuff is fabulous. Try their fresh zucchini or any other squash - sweet as sugar. This is what I do: using a non-stick frying pan cut the squash into 3/4" slices. Put in some olive oil on medium heat. Salt and pepper the

slices and fry, baby, fry until they are just slightly brown. Turn and repeat. Next, fry a bit of chopped garlic in the same oil until slightly brown. Remove garlic from oil, sprinkle over the squash - and watch out! This would also make a great sandwich. Another good tip uses their organic celery with all the green leaves. Use the celery greens like parsley. Chop them up and use for salad, on potatoes, on eggs or in everything. Great stuff - check them out. Call (831) 455-2575 and ask for Sarah.

Q). Dear Chef,
I'm stumped! Being a former New Englander, I used to eat a ton of fried clams - the whole ones with belly. I remember that these clams came to the restaurants in brass-colored gallon metal cans with a pry off lid. They were whole fresh clams (always under refrigeration) with all shell removed. I have missed these since moving here and wonder if there's a supplier in this area who can get them for me. I assume it's possible since Maine Lobsters are easily found. They were called "Ipswich clams" locally in CT and RI. Also, I have never seen them sold in any restaurant in this area, and I'll bet there are enough former and visiting east-coasters here who love eating truly good fried clams, that the first restaurant to advertise them would be deluged. Some of the best I ever had were at Moody's Diner in Wiscasset, Maine. I believe they used a tempura beer batter.
Thanks so much!
Clay Couri
Local clocksmith and organist/choirmaster at St John's Chapel (Monterey)
Via e-mail

A). I know exactly what you're talking about Clay! I have eaten them in precisely the same place you are talking about. They literally explode in your mouth. Are you sitting down Clay? They are available and they are only $89.00 for 5 lbs. ($18.00 a pound), and they do come already shucked. They are fragile and difficult to transport, which makes them an expensive item. How about saving your money and waiting until the air fare is real cheap to the East Coast and go eat your fill. By comparison a 4 lb. tub of shucked oysters is $16.25. How about some fried oysters?

Q). Hi John, I'm in the market for a new pepper mill for home use. What do you recommend, and where is the best place to buy one?
Thanks, Stan
Via e-mail

A). The best is the one I use at home and in the restaurants. Go to Monterey Bay Restaurant Equipment or call (831) 899-1422. Ask for Danny or Bill and tell them you want the guaranteed-for-life pepper mill. It really works and you won't be disappointed.

Q). Mr. Pisto:
My wife and I just had a wonderful lunch at your Blue Moon Restaurant in Monterey. Our appetizer was the best fried calamari that we ever had. I wonder if it would be possible to get the recipe along with the great dipping sauce. We are looking forward to trying your other restaurants.
Thank You: Ron & Bonnie Horrisberger from San Jose
Via e-mail

A). I would love to give it to you folks, but it's a tough one. If you're a lover of squid (calamari) there is a great restaurant on Monterey's Fisherman's Wharf called Abalonetti. It specializes in squid, in fact I know that they have 12 to 14 different dishes, all squid. Thanks for trying out the Blue Moon.

Q). After barbequing a half of a Salmon, I produce ragged individual servings of what was once a nice piece of fish. I was wondering if you could offer any suggestions on how to slice the cooked fish which would look more appetizing. We are locals and enjoy your restaurants from time to time.
Regards,
Armand Labbe
Carmel

A). Ok, Armand here's the secret - use my grill for one thing, or cut fish into serving size pieces first, my boy! Here are the most important rules. First, make sure the grill is hot, and then spray the grill with some Pam or wipe with oil. Next, rub the fish with butter and oil, season to your liking, place on the grill and DON'T TOUCH! I mean, don't touch. This

is where everyone screws up. After 6 to 8 minutes, carefully roll the fish over and, again, don't touch. Your heat source should be medium to medium-high. If you're using a Webber, you should use the cover - but it will cook faster. The fish is done when it is no longer opaque. If you do happen to burn or break it up - eat it or give it to the cat.

Hi John,
I found your abalone recipe while looking for a chowder recipe and would like to suggest an updated version. I have been an abalone diver for about twenty years off the Sonoma coast and we had abalone tonight for dinner. I modified the old egg and bread crumb recipe due to my wife's allergies - here's my version: First with a sharp knife I thinly slice the abalone, trying for 1/16 to 1/8" pieces but if they're fatter, I just pound harder. Next

pound the abalone with a meat tenderizing hammer or a bottle. I pound till the flesh almost brakes apart (over the years I've also found shucking the ab 24 hours before, then storing it in the fridge is the best tenderizer). Then I hand rub basic Italian herbs thyme, oregano, salt, pepper, tarragon or whatever I have on the abalone slices. Sauté over a medium flame with butter and garlic till golden brown. Tonight I used some olive oil (we ran short of butter). This was so good we didn't even use tartar sauce. If you'd like to try this on a fresh abalone, email me around August first, which is the next good tide after the season reopens.
Thanks David

Response: David my man! Thanks for the recipe - I will e-mail you in August. I never turn down fresh big wild abalone!

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