Ask the Chef

December 29, 2004  ...  by Chef John Pisto

Remember the girls from Canada that I met at David Arora's mushroom foray in Mendocino? Being that they are from B.C., they eat a lot of salmon and they are always coming up with new ways to cook and eat it. They claim that salmon hearts are delicious, but you need a lot of them. Looks like the salmon may be the "pork of the sea". You can eat everything but the oink. I guess with salmon it's you can eat everything but the splash. How about some salmon liver pâté? Just make sure the livers are very fresh and then try this Salmon Livers Recipe: Salmon livers may be frozen until you have accumulated

the 1 pound necessary for this recipe. If you don't fish, ask a fishing friend to save the livers for you.
6 tbsp unsalted butter 6 cups water
3 cloves garlic 12 peppercorns
1 small onion, chopped 2 bay leaves
1 tsp dried tarragon leafy tops of celery stalks
1 tsp dried rosemary 1/4 tsp allspice
1/2 tsp dried savory 1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp dried thyme 1/4 tsp pepper
1 lb. salmon livers 6 tbsp dry sherry
In a skillet, melt butter then add the garlic, onion, tarragon, rosemary, savory and thyme. Sauté gently until onions are tender. Cook the
salmon livers by placing peppercorns, bay leaves and celery in water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Add livers and simmer 5 minutes more, 10 minutes for large livers. Remove livers with a slotted spoon and discard water, celery and spices. Puree the onion and herb mixture with the salmon livers in a food processor, adding allspice, salt and pepper. Next add the sherry gradually until mixture is smooth and a spreadable consistency. Place in a decorative 2 cup crock and refrigerate for several hours. Pate will become stiffer after refrigeration. Remove about half an hour before serving. Serves 6.

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Q). Chef Pisto,

Holiday greetings to you and yours. Question: I've got some fresh frozen octopus that's been in the freezer for about a year. Do you think it's still good and, if so, would you add it to a cioppino dish?

Dave LeadVia e-mail

A). I haven't heard the term "fresh frozen" in years. Some fish mongers and chefs tried that one until people finally caught on. Can something be fresh and frozen? Sound like military intelligence to me. As for your octopus, depending on how your eight legged guy was packaged, he might be okay. You might as well let it thaw out and give it a test. It's bound to lose some water while thawing so let it happen gradually

in your fridge. Don't be tempted to defrost it in your microwave, you'll ruin it for sure. If it still tastes good, go ahead and use it but, either way, I don't put octopus in my cioppino. Check out my web site for some recipes.

Q). Dear Chef Pisto,

A friend of mine has been making his own Lemoncello at home for the past several years. I bought some at the liquor store, but it didn't compare with his homemade hootch. Do you know how to make it?

Steve P.Via e-mail

A). Lemoncello or limoncello is considered the national drink of Italy. It is delicious as an after dinner liqueur or as a between course palate cleanser and is best

served in a shot glass straight from the freezer. Folks, this is easy to make and would make a great new year's gift item.
Limoncello Recipe
10 lemons
1 liter vodka
3 cups white sugar
4 cups water
Zest the lemons, and place the zests in a large glass bottle or jar.

Pour in vodka. Cover loosely and let infuse for one week at room temperature. After one week, combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. DO Not Stir. Boil for 15 minutes then allow the syrup to cool to room temperature. Stir vodka mixture into syrup. Strain into glass bottle and seal each bottle with a cork. Let mixture age for 2 weeks at room temperature. Place bottled liqueur into the freezer and serve when icy cold.

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Folks I want to share with you the best pasta sauce recipe that I have tasted in a long time. 6 pieces of bacon, 1 large onion, 6 garlic cloves all chopped.

Sauté in olive oil then add 1 cup chopped Tasso (Cajun smoked pork), 1 28 oz can of Italian plum tomato, 1/2 jar of Sensational Seasoning, 4 tbsp sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 30 minutes on medium heat. Serve over 1 lb.cooked linguine with freshly grated Romano cheese. Unbelievable!

New Year's resolution: Folks, my advice hasn't changed much over the past several years. This week I read a survey that said most people resolve to lose weight. That usually means record level new memberships at the local gym, which are all but abandoned by spring. Or dropping a few pounds on the latest diet craze only to gain more back later. I say moderation in all things - including moderation! It is possible to enjoy your life and still maintain some balance. Eat a little of what you like - don't deprive yourself. Get some regular

exercise - take a walk every day - it's free! Above all, think positive and live in the moment - it's all we really have.

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