April 2, 2003 Ask the Chef Article

April 2, 2003 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Q: Dear John,

Last year I planted some French sorrel seed. I like collecting herbs and this was one I was not familiar with. My plants now look great and my European friends are happy to see the plants that their grandmothers always used. What do I use it for? I’ve heard fish and soup, but how? How about local varieties? I used to chew on sour grass as a kid.

P.S. How are those choppers doing?

Roy Thomas, DDS, Via e-mail

A: Well, I guess you can tell that this letter is from my dentist, Professor Roy Thomas. Roy is truly

a man that explores everything in life. A fantastic winemaker with great taste buds, a mushroom hunter and forager of all things wild, a fisherman of uncanny ability, and an inquisitive mind that never stops thinking. Let us first explore sour grass. This plant grows around here in great profusion. It stands 6 to 7 inches tall and has a yellow flower. My mother told me not to eat it because dogs watered them; that’s why they were sour. Naturally we had to see if it was true. Actually it tasted pretty good. Bingo! Eureka! It would be a natural for a seafood sauce. So here’s a sour grass recipe folks: 1 cup of prepared sour grass in the food processor. Sauté a bit of shallots with butter, then add 1 cup heavy cream. Reduce, then add processed grass a spoon at a time.

When it tastes balanced to you, spoon it over some sandabs or petrale sole and watch out!

Regarding Sorrel, it may look like spinach, but it’s flavor is intensely lemony. It grows great around here year around. Home gardeners should try it. Use it sparingly in salad or add it to reduced cream with sautéed shallots. It’s also good with potatoes.

Readers: Got a call from New York the other day about two new books. One is “Made in Marseille” by Daniel Young and the other is “Cooking For Comfort” by Marian Burros. Both great and I highly recommend them.

Q: John, on your show you put the same final sauce on two different fish. Missed the recipe for the sauce. We really enjoy your show! Dick Miller, Myrtle Beach, S.C., Via e-mail

A: Hi Dick, you are talking about one of my favorite sauces. It’s very easy to make and is best enjoyed with fresh fish. In a medium bowl mash 6 garlic cloves. Add 1 cup extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, 1/3 cup fresh lemon juice and 1 small handful fresh oregano. It is very important that you crush the oregano in your palms, as this releases the flavor.

A new one on me: How does a Pacific Rim-style restaurant do a fish stew? Chef Kurt at Blue Moon on Cannery Row, says it’s easy. He combines fresh fish, shellfish, prawns, squid, stir-fried vegetables, red curry and coconut broth and calls it “Chino’s-Cioppino.”

Readers: Boy, did I get a present last Thursday. Floyd Kookash, mayor, guide and “master of the bait” from Admiralty Island, Alaska, sent me a bag of dried and smoked halibut, which is now very expensive, and a bag of silver salmon prepared the same way. Along with the fish came 2 quart jars of dried, smoked and cooked seal meat, all packed in seal oil. What a fantastic opportunity to taste authentic native foods. I would love to share these with a few people who would be interested in doing a tasting with me. Salmon fishermen, now is your chance to get even! For those of you who don’t know, seal lions regularly take hooked salmon right out from under a fisherman’s nose. It’s not unusual for seal lions to take 8 out of ten hooked fish. It’s safe to say this makes for some pretty upset fishermen. I’ve tasted this before and it has such a pure flavor that is just incredible. Call me at (831) 373-3778.

Q: John we caught the end of your TV ad about $10.00 lobster meals on Fisherman’s Wharf. Several of us would like to know what that was about. We’ll be right over when we find out. I had hoped it would be on your website.

The Wilsons, Via e-mail

A: Maybe in your dreams folks! $10.00 for lobster? No way! You’re thinking of the $9.95 local’s special served all day every Wednesday at all Wharf restaurants (including two hours free parking). We do have a $19.95 ongoing lobster special featuring a 1 1/4 lb. lobster cooked a few ways with pasta, salad, fresh vegetables, bread & butter.

Hot olive oil tip: While in Paso Robles recently, I tasted an intense California olive oil. It’s made by a very small company called “Willow Creek Olive Oil Ranch.” They call their product “Pasolivo Extra Virgin Olive Oil.” Folks, I swear if you like green pepper oil, this is the one for you. They use pendolino, frantoio, moraiolo, and leccino olives. Pour a little over a piece of poached white fish, salad, or bread. Very impressive! (805) 226-8809.

Q: We are interested in your local specials that you have. We just moved to the area and have not yet eaten at Abalonetti’s. Tami Lunsford, Via e-mail

A: Thanks for asking Tami. Folks, here’s the low down on my restaurants:

Steaks - Whaling Station Prime Steaks and Seafood (USDA Prime only).

Pacific Rim Seafood - Blue Moon East West Cuisine on Cannery Row.

For lobster, crab, specialty local calamari prepared twelve ways, wood-fired pizza, and the original fresh antipasto bar - Abalonetti.

Caesar salad at the table, live tanks, lots of fresh fish, shellfish, flaming desserts and an oyster bar - Domenico’s.

All of the restaurants have large local & regional wine lists and full bars. Click any of the icons below to see all of the menus. Welcome to our area. Remember the local’s specials on Wednesday, and go for it Tami!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

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