September 11, 2002 Ask the Chef Article

September 11, 2002 ... Ask the Chef ... John Pisto

Oregon coast explored. The coastal towns of Oregon were absolutely jammed (Labor Day weekend). The main difference between the Monterey and Oregon coastline is that our roads tend to be right on the water where up there you have to park and walk. You can't even see the water from your car most of the time. We visited an ocean village called Seaside and met with the Phillips family who have a candy store that's been in business since 1897. We talked with Jack, Steve and Pat Phillips - boy, homemade candy at its finest! By the way, we did a chocolate tasting a few months ago with Bryant Gumble and friends and the Phillips scored the highest. I'm talking heavyweights like Godiva, Burdick's, Sees, Ghirardelli and a couple of others. We tasted port wines with the chocolates - folks, before you die, everyone should try this kind of tasting.

Phillips Candies specializes in hand-dipped chocolates, real old-fashioned fudges and numerous flavors of saltwater taffy, all of which can be shipped anywhere (503) 738-5402.

Oregon coastal cuisine - it's about the clams, folks - razor clams. These clams are oval shaped and about 6-8 inches long. The shell looks like wood grain and has a sharp edge - like a razor. They can be expensive and the locals dig them up right on the beach. When I heard that razor clams were a specialty in Oregon, I told Cheryl that my quest was defined - find the best tasting razor clams! The first night, we went to the all-organic Higgins Restaurant in Portland. They had the pan-fried clams ($22.) so naturally that's what I had. They were great, but this being the first time I tried
them, I wasn't sure what to expect.

The next day it was the Sea Breeze Café, a roadhouse just outside of Seaside, Oregon. The sign outside said "razor clams and eggs." Braking real fast and almost killing 6 people, I made the parking lot. Once inside, we were warmly greeted and I ordered the clams and eggs - now I'm starving for them! I saw the cook beating some eggs then flouring some clam steaks. Then I saw them - a big pile of clam steaks, egg-dipped and flatiron grilled - nothing else - then a couple of over-easy eggs and a mound of hash browns. I dug in - tasted; dug a little deeper; gave Cheryl a piece - she smiled, I smiled - hmm, not bad. Good coffee, their own homemade strawberry jam and great service by people who seemed to actually like their jobs (unbelievable nowadays) - next stop, Cannon Beach.

Experts told me the best razor clams would be found at a place called the Driftwood Inn in Cannon Beach, just south of Seaside. Again, smiling people all over the place. What's wrong with them, why is everyone so happy? Got a table and ordered the clams and a Bloody Mary. The Bloody Mary came in a 1/2 gallon size with 1/2 a head of celery in it - no wonder everyone is smiling. The clams arrived - three steaks floured and grilled, served with tartar sauce and lemon only. Great flavor, sweet, very good!

So, who had the best? It was tough deciding, but I would have to say Higgins in Portland. I called them and they gave me their recipe. Now all I need is some razor clams.

razorclams091102.jpg (9573 bytes)

Q: Dear Chef Pisto, I keep hearing about "heirloom tomatoes." What are they and what makes them so special? J. Lucas - Monterey

A: Talking with Pete at Monte Vista Market, he tells me that people still aren't familiar with heirloom tomatoes. Folks, these are the tomatoes that you should be eating. They are called "heirloom" because they are very old varieties that have been brought back. Heirlooms are extremely delicate, fragile, come in a wide variety of colors and sizes, are only picked when they are ready to eat and taste like a tomato should. I eat them every day - honest! They are vine-ripened, sweet, low in acid and perfect with just salt and pepper, oregano and your good olive oil. You must try them - Pete is giving them away at $2.49 a pound. Other places have them for $4.95 to $5.95. They are only available for a few months each year and this is the time! Even if you think you don't like tomatoes (probably because you were brought up on typical supermarket

varieties, picked while hard, green and acidic for maximum shelf-life), give these a try - they just might change you life.

Q: Dear John,

I have been reading lately that sardines are being caught in Monterey Bay by the ton, just like in the Steinbeck days. Is anyone actually eating them?

Nathan D. - Monterey

A: Local's special! How many of your have ever tasted that most famous of all local fish, fresh Monterey sardines? Well, now you will have the opportunity. At Abalonetti and Paradiso, they will be prepared just like I eat them when I'm in Europe. Now for the best part - it's an all-you-can-eat deal, because I know you're going to love them.

Readers: Take a look at this cabbage, grown by our gardener Tiffany right here on Wave Street, above Cannery Row. You should see this great garden with tomatoes, cabbage, zucchini, fennel and 'chokes - way to go Tiff. Then again, Tiffany can make anything grow!

jptiffanycabbage091102.jpg (13987 bytes)

Wave Street Garden Slaw Recipe

Red and white cabbages shredded very thin; red, green and yellow bell peppers, core removed and sliced into matchstick size; chopped fresh parsley; a dab of horseradish; a bit of sugar; a good splash of red wine vinegar (you want this to taste a bit sweet and sour so balance the sugar and vinegar); a shot of olive oil; salt and pepper to taste.

One final thought: On this terrible anniversary, let's remember what's really important in our lives. Grab someone you love and treat them to a meal in a local restaurant - maybe one you haven't visited in a while. Sharing this way is one tradition that brings us just a little bit closer. God Bless America!

For more info about John Pisto's fine restaurants

in Monterey, California, click here.

Last "Ask the Chef" Article ♦ Index of "Ask the Chef" Articles